Island Peak Climbing

Island peak climbing is one of the best options if you want to submit the home of the Himalayas. Island Peak is also known as Imja Tae among the Nepalese. The name ‘Island Peak ‘ was given by the British mountaineers in 1953 because it looks like an island in a sea of ice if it is viewed from Dingboche. The peak is a section of the south ridge of Lhotse Shar, the main area forms an arc of cliffs that advances to the north of the summits of Nuptse, Lhotse, Middle Peak, and Lhotse Shar. The peak is also colloquially known as ‘Imja Tse’.

Island Peak is possibly the best and only opportunity for advanced, intermediate and beginner climbers to take on the challenge of climbing a glacier above 20,000 feet, in the heart of the Himalayas. The trekker will get to relish the view of gigantic mountains such as Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, Gokyo Ri, Pumori, Nuptse, Kala Patthar, Khumbila, Kongde Ri and many other Himalayas seen from the trek route. Along the route, you will get to walk along some of the famous Everest Base Camp treks. The Himalayan peaks draw adventurers and climbers from all over the world and have done for nearly 200 years. The stark rugged terrain, entwined with the culture of local Sherpa people offers such powerful experiences that Himalayan travel is in a class of its own. The trekkers get to take a tour of Sagarmatha National Park which is listed as UNESCO’s World Heritage site. The trekkers will also get to visit the ancient caves, monasteries, villages, valleys, and museums in this trek. This trek also features the hike up to the hotel operating in the highest altitude i.e. Hotel Everest View. Island Peak Climbing is an adventurous trek which will definitely be a thrilling experience for the lifetime.

Location

The peak is located in the Sagarmatha National Park in eastern Nepal.It is standing between Ama Dablam and Lhotse peak. The peak is 6,189m above sea level.

 

Attraction during island peak climbing

The majestic views of glaciers, breathtaking mountains, the authentic culture and lifestyle of local sherpas in the valleys, exhilarating view of rhododendrons are some of the attractions of Island peak climbing. Similarly, the climbing is done through the Sagarmatha National Park therefore you can see various species of flora and fauna. If you are lucky enough you can you will see some endangered species such as wild yaks musk deer etc.

 

Best time for climbing

The month of April, May, October, and November is best for climbing Island Peak. During these months the temperature during night goes from -5degree to -10 degrees celsius  whereas during the day the temperature goes from 0 degrees to 15-degree celsius.

 

Difficulty level

Many climbers experience a bit of difficulty in climbing this peak. But the difficulty level depends upon person to person and time of climbing. Before climbing the peak one should be physically and mentally prepared. Technical training and physical training need to be done before climbing.

 

Journey 

The journey of climbing the peak starts from Lukla with the plane trip from Kathmandu because it is the only gateway to the peak. You won’t see Island Peak until 6-7th day of trek from Bouche. Though you might see various other mountain peaks including Mount Everest.

 

Preparation

Before climbing the peak you need you to be well prepared for the journey. The food and water needed though you will find many tea houses in the way, proper type of clothes , gears, and a positive and determined mind.

 

Accommodation 

There are many tea houses on the way to the peak with basic facilities. You have to adopt the tent accommodation as you begin from base camp. In the higher elevation, you take a room with the twins or a single room by paying extra fees. 

 

Fee and permit

To climb the peak you need the permit of Sagarmatha National Park’s too. On the route, there are checkpoints where you have to show the permit to go further. The two permit that you need are Local Area Permit which is fixed i.e.Rs 2000 and Island peak climbing permit varies from season to season

 

Clothing and Gears

  1. A comfortable trekking boots,

  2. Wind and waterproof gloves,

  3. A fleece  or down jacket,

  4. Sock Liners, wool socks, 

  5. Woolen muffler,

  6. Climbing helmet,

  7. Climbing boot

  8. Ice ax,

  9. Carabiners,

  10. Tape sling,

  11. Torchlight and some batteries,

The trail to the peak of Island is technically difficult so choose the best time and appropriate gears. Similarly, choose the experience and qualified guide for the trip. The positive and determined mind with a physically fit body can take you to the peak.

Destination Unlimited has been taking clients through the Himalayan landscape for years. With thorough experience and knowledge, we are the best travel agency for organizing trek in Nepal. Although there are elements of risk involved, our highly dedicated and professional team always ensure that you are safely prepared to make your way through the adventure and take everything possible from your experience. We provide our clients with all kinds of services like transportation, communication, and other basic services throughout their stay in Nepal. Our team is proud to ensure that you have a fantastic experience and never forget exploring the great Himalayan landscape.

 

 

Trip Highlights of Island Peak Climbing

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is one of the most popular trekking peaks in Nepal. Here are the key highlights of climbing Island Peak:

Stunning Scenery

  • Panoramic Views: Climbers are rewarded with spectacular views of the Himalayas, including Mt. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Makalu, Ama Dablam, and many other peaks.
  • Khumbu Valley: The trek to Island Peak takes you through the beautiful Khumbu Valley, with its picturesque villages, monasteries, and lush forests.

Cultural Experience

  • Sherpa Culture: Experience the rich Sherpa culture and hospitality. Visit traditional villages like Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche.
  • Monasteries: Explore ancient monasteries, including the famous Tengboche Monastery, which offers spiritual and cultural insights.

Challenging Climb

  • Technical Ascent: Island Peak provides an excellent introduction to Himalayan mountaineering. The climb includes crossing glaciers, navigating crevasses, and using ropes and crampons.
  • Summit Push: The final ascent involves a steep snow and ice slope, which is challenging but achievable for climbers with basic mountaineering skills.

Trekking Experience

  • Everest Base Camp: Many climbers combine the Island Peak climb with a trek to Everest Base Camp, adding to the adventure.
  • Acclimatization: The trek is designed to help with acclimatization, with gradual ascents and rest days to adjust to the altitude.

Adventure and Achievement

  • Personal Achievement: Reaching the summit of Island Peak at 6,189 meters (20,305 feet) is a significant accomplishment, providing a sense of achievement and confidence.
  • Adventure: The entire journey, from the trek through the Khumbu region to the technical climb, is filled with adventure and excitement.

Natural Beauty

  • Glaciers and Lakes: Witness the stunning glacial landscapes, including the Imja Glacier and the turquoise Imja Tsho (Imja Lake).
  • Flora and Fauna: Encounter diverse wildlife and unique vegetation as you trek through different ecological zones.

Logistics and Support

  • Guided Expeditions: Most climbs are supported by experienced guides and Sherpa teams, ensuring safety and providing valuable assistance.
  • Teahouse Lodging: Comfortable teahouses and lodges along the trekking route offer a glimpse into the local lifestyle and provide rest and nourishment.

Island Peak climbing offers a perfect blend of adventure, natural beauty, and cultural immersion, making it a sought-after experience for trekkers and climbers worldwide.

 

 

 

 

Outline Itinerary:

  • Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu (1,300m)
  • Day 02: Trekking preparation day and half day sightseeing.
  • Day 03: Fly to Lukla (2,800m) then trek to Phakding (2,652m): 40 min flight, 3-4 hours trek
  • Day 04: Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m): 5-6 hours
  • Day 05: Namche Bazaar (3,440 m): Acclimatization Day
  • Day 06: Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m) 5- 6 hours
  • Day 07: Tengboche to Dingboche (4,360 m): 5 to 6 hours
  • Day 08: Dingboche to Chhukung (4,730m): 3-4 hours
  • Day 09: Acclimatization: Climb Chhukung Ri (5,546m) and trek back to Chhukung: 3 – 4 hours
  • Day 10: Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp (5,200m): 3-4 hours
  • Day 11: Island Peak Base Camp to Island Peak Summit (6,189m), back to base camp: 10-12 hours
  • Day 12: Island Peak Base Camp to Pangboche (3,985m) 5-6 hours
  • Day 13: Pangboche to Namche Bazaar: 4-5 hours
  • Day 14: Namche Bazaar to Lukla: 6-7 hours
  • Day 15: Fly to Kathmandu
  • Day 16: Final departure

Detail Itinerary

  • Day 01 :Arrival Kathmandu (1,300m) Upon your arrival, our representative will greet you at the airport and escort you to your hotel. The afternoon will be free for you to get the first taste of Nepali life in Kathmandu. over night at Kathmandu.
  • Day 02 :Trekking preparation day and half day sightseeing. Today we will take a tour around the city of Kathmandu, visiting the major heritage sites such as; Pashupatinath, Boudhanath, Swayambhunath, Patan and Durbar Square. You will be guided and informed by a licensed guide. O/N Hotel
  • Day 03 :Fly to Lukla (2,800m) then trek to Phakding (2,652m): 40 min flight, 3-4 hours trek We will fly to Lukla enjoying the fantastic view of the Himalayas and land at one of the world’s most unique airport. We then trek for 3-4-hour to reach the village of Phakding. On our way, we come across lush forests, water streams, and a couple of bridges before reaching our destination. O/N Lodge.
  • Day 04 :Phakding to Namche Bazaar (3,440m): 5-6 hours We will begin with breakfast and march towards the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park. With a beautiful view of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and the other Himalayas, we come across dense forests of juniper, rhododendron, fir, and pine. After 6 hours of trek, we reach the village of Namche Bazaar. O/N Lodge
  • Day 05 :Namche Bazaar (3,440 m): Acclimatization Day We will spend an additional day here to acclimatize, taking off on a short day climbs to Hotel Everest View which has the dazzling perspective view of the Himalayas.
  • Day 06 :Namche Bazaar to Tengboche (3,870m) 5- 6 hours We start our day trekking along the beautiful view of the Himalayas. We trek through the Dudh Koshi gorge to Tengboche Monastery, a standout amongst the most excellent valleys strolls on earth. Tengboche Monastery is famous for the stunning view of Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and the other Himalayas from the monastery’s premises. O/N Lodge.
  • Day 07 :Tengboche to Dingboche (4,360 m): 5 to 6 hours Today we trek to Dingboche. Enjoy the serenity of nature, we climb uphill to our next acclimatization village. This offers an opportunity to witness the musk deer, mountains goats and various species of beautiful birds living in the lush Himalayan forests. We trek for 6 hours to reach Dingboche. O/N Lodge
  • Day 08 :Dingboche to Chhukung (4,730m): 3-4 hours Today, we leave the main Everest Base Camp trail and trek to Chhukung. We trek through dense alpine forests of rhododendron before crossing few wooden bridges over water streams. We reach Chhukung after 4 hours of trek. This beautiful village is in the heart of the region and is a popular destination for those taking this trekking route. Overnight tea house.
  • Day 09 :Acclimatization: Climb Chhukung Ri (5,546m) and trek back to Chhukung: 3 – 4 hours Chukkung Ri is a rocky peak, similar to Kalapatthar, above the village of Chhukung. This peak will be used as an acclimatization ascent by our group to prepare for the Island Peak Climb. Chukkung Ri hosts an outstanding view of the Himalayas.
  • Day 10 :Chhukung to Island Peak Base camp (5,200m): 3-4 hours Today, we will leave the Village of Chhukung and trek to the Island Peak Base Camp. Along the route, we will be adorned with lush flora and fauna as we take in the view of the Himalayan backdrop and snow-capped mountain peaks along the route. We cross several bridges over water streams and stumble across the moraine of Lhotse Glacier. We trek through a steep ridge to reach Island Peak Base Camp.
  • Day 11 :Island Peak Base Camp to Island Peak Summit (6,189m), back to base camp: 10-12 hours We begin our 1,000-metre ascent to the summit. Although there is some scrambling in places, the route is well used and easy to follow. We use the techniques we learned the day before to climb the peak. We follow a rocky spur to the upper snowfields which offer stunning views of Makalu and Lhotse. The view from the top is truly breathtaking. We feel like we are at the top of the world. After exploring the summit, we trek back to the base camp.
  • Day 12 :Island Peak Base Camp to Pangboche (3,985m) 5-6 hours Passing Chhukung, we trek down to Dingbuche, Syomare, cross few bridges to finally reach Pangboche. Pangboche is a spectacular place with the most ancient gompa of the Everest region- Pangboche Gompa. We take tours of the gompas. O/N Teahouse
  • Day 13 :Pangboche to Namche Bazaar: 4-5 hours Trekking through dense forests of rhododendron, juniper, and pine, we descend to Tengboche and then to Phunki Tenga. Continuing our trek, we cross some wooden bridges over Dudh Koshi River and some water streams to reach Namche Bazaar through stone step trail.
  • Day 14 :Namche Bazaar to Lukla: 6-7 hours On our final day of trekking, we enjoy the majestic mountains, serene nature and traditional villages as we make our way to Lukla. Trekking through rhododendron forest to the valley floor, we recall the great experiences we have just shared. We go for a Himalayan style dinner in the evening. O/N Hotel
  • Day 15 :Fly to Kathmandu The last day involves flying back to Kathmandu (35 mins), checking into the hotel. The rest of the time in the capital city can be used to buy souvenirs and enjoy the sights and sounds before departing. O/N Hotel
  • Day 16 :Final departure It’s the day to say bid farewell to the beautiful land of Nepal. Our company representative will take you to the airport. In case our country has enchanted you so much you desire to further explore, we are always there to extend your trip.

Cost Includes

  • Hotel in Kathmandu with Breakfast
  • All Airport Arrival and Transfer by Private Vehicle
  • Tea-house Lodge during the Trekking
  • Experienced, Government Licensed English-speaking Guide
  • Domestic Airfare (Ktm-Luk-Ktm) with all airport taxes
  • All your standard Meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) with cup of tea or coffee during the trekking as per menu and Climbing Buffed
  • All the Climbing staffs and their Expenses
  • Trekker's information management system (TIMS) card fee.
  • Sagarmatha National Park fees
  • Sleeping bag for trekking
  • Duffle bag and Tshirts
  • Trip Map
  • Island Peak climbing permit
  • Sleeping bag
  • First Aid Kit
  • Good quality Tents and Kitchen utensils for camping
  • Climbing equipment (Ropes, Tents, Kitchen Tents, Ice axe, Helmet etc.)
  • Travel and rescue arrangements
  • All the Government Taxes

Cost Excludes

  • Your personal Equipment for Climbing such as Jackets, Boot etc.
  • Nepalese visa fee (bring accurate USD cash and two passport photographs)
  • International airfare to and from Kathmandu
  • Khumbu Tax 20$
  • Excess baggage charges (if you have more than 15 kg luggage, cargo charge is around $1.5 per kg)
  • Extra night accommodation in Kathmandu because of early arrival, late departure, early return from mountain (due to any reason) than the scheduled itinerary
  • Altitude chamber (PAC) or oxygen
  • Lunch and evening meals in Kathmandu (and also in the case of early return from mountain than the scheduled itinerary)
  • Travel and rescue insurance
  • Personal expenses (phone calls, laundry, bar bills, battery recharge, extra porters, bottled or boiled water, shower, heater, etc.)
  • Personal climbing equipment
  • Personal climbing guide if requested
  • Optional trips and sightseeing if extended
  • Tips for guides and porters

1. What is Island Peak?

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular trekking peak in Nepal, standing at 6,189 meters (20,305 feet). It is located in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas.

2. Who can climb Island Peak?

Island Peak is suitable for trekkers with some previous trekking experience and basic mountaineering skills. Prior experience with ice axes, crampons, and rope techniques is beneficial but not mandatory, as pre-climb training is often provided.

3. How difficult is the climb?

The climb is considered moderately challenging. It involves trekking through high-altitude terrain, glacier travel, and a final steep ice and snow slope. Good physical fitness and some mountaineering skills are required.

4. What is the best time to climb Island Peak?

The best times to climb are during the pre-monsoon (spring) season from April to early June and the post-monsoon (autumn) season from September to November. These periods offer stable weather and clear skies.

5. How long does the expedition take?

A typical Island Peak climbing expedition lasts around 18-20 days. This includes trekking to the base of the peak, acclimatization days, the summit attempt, and the return trek.

6. What permits are required for climbing Island Peak?

Climbers need several permits, including:

  • Island Peak Climbing Permit
  • Sagarmatha National Park Entry Permit
  • Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality Entry Permit

7. What equipment is needed for the climb?

Essential equipment includes:

  • Mountaineering boots and crampons
  • Ice axe and harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ropes and carabiners
  • Warm clothing, including a down jacket and insulated layers
  • Sleeping bag suitable for cold weather

8. Is acclimatization necessary?

Yes, proper acclimatization is crucial to avoid altitude sickness. The itinerary usually includes rest days and gradual ascents to help climbers adjust to the altitude.

9. What kind of accommodation is available?

Accommodation includes teahouses and lodges along the trekking route. At Island Peak Base Camp, climbers typically stay in tents.

10. Do I need a guide or can I climb independently?

While it is possible to climb independently, it is highly recommended to hire a guide or join a guided expedition. Guides provide valuable local knowledge, ensure safety, and assist with technical climbing sections.

11. What are the potential risks and challenges?

  • Altitude Sickness: Proper acclimatization and monitoring symptoms are essential.
  • Weather Conditions: Rapid weather changes can pose risks.
  • Technical Challenges: Ice and glacier travel require caution and skill.

12. How do I prepare for the climb?

Preparation should include:

  • Physical Training: Cardiovascular fitness, strength training, and endurance exercises.
  • Technical Training: Basic mountaineering skills, including the use of crampons and ice axes.
  • Equipment Familiarity: Practice using your gear before the expedition.

13. What is the cost of climbing Island Peak?

The cost can vary widely based on the services included (guides, permits, equipment, accommodation). Typically, an all-inclusive expedition package can range from $2,500 to $4,500.

14. Is travel insurance necessary?

Yes, comprehensive travel insurance that covers high-altitude trekking and mountaineering, including emergency evacuation, is essential.

15. What should I pack?

A detailed packing list typically includes:

  • Clothing: Layered clothing, thermal wear, waterproof jacket and pants, hat, gloves.
  • Footwear: Sturdy trekking boots, mountaineering boots.
  • Climbing Gear: Crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet.
  • Personal Items: First aid kit, sunscreen, water purification tablets, snacks.

Climbing Island Peak is a rewarding experience, combining the thrill of mountaineering with the beauty and culture of the Himalayas. Proper preparation, acclimatization, and guidance are key to a successful and safe ascent.

Trip Map

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Key Information

  • Trip Cost US$ 2200
  • Trip Duration 16 Days
  • Destination Nepal
  • Trip Difficulty Strenuous
  • Trip Style Peak Climbing
  • Accomodation Lodge + Camping
  • Max Altitude 6189m
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No of people Price P.P
1-1 Pax US$ 2200
2-4 US$ 2100